Dreadlocks Maintenance – Session 3
Date done: 2016-11 -18
Hairstylist: Mofire – Derrick Adu
Location: JHB, South-Africa
So today I went for some maintenance at Mr. Mofire. I was desperate and needed to go before a few big business meetings. It’s strange enough in our culture and my corporate work environment that I have Dreadlocks, never mind pitching for a meeting with international suppliers looking like a hippy.
I prepped my hair the night before the appointment, this could be done twice before an appointment to ensure maximum effect, and to give you scalp a little break.
I start with spraying my dry or wet hair with the vinegar and lemon juice solution. I go to the mirror and get a nice sharp light. I inspect to see if there are any issues with regards to dandruff and then I know what area to concentrate on. Then I mix baking soda with a little bit of water to form a paste. I place that on the exposed scalp areas and massage in, almost like you would do with a face scrub. i leave it on for about 2-3 min, not too long.
What I use:
Then I rinse my hair I massage every part, trying to loosen up any dead skin cells. I will then add a little shampoo to my scalp and the roots area – you don’t really want to soak your dreads in soup, so I’ll avoid that if I was you. I then rinse my hair and see if I have achieved the desired effect.
It’s very difficult to find good products for your dreads, and you end up being at the mercy of others when you don’t have the knowledge. I try to use a shampoo that does not have to much residue or moisturisers in. There are lots of articles out there about all the harm full chemicals in shampoo and conditioners. I found this picture on Livelovefruit.com on 12 Toxic Ingredients to Avoid in Shampoo and Conditioner
There is a company in Cape Town called Healthy Coils that sells products for hair – including products from the international company Knotty Boy. The products are still expensive, but they are natural. I have yet to use them, but paying R300 for a shampoo and then still having to courier it from Cape Town to here in JHB, is a little steep… I did however find another product – but more on that later.
I use Baby shampoo for now. It is not really considered an amazing product. It apparently contains Formaldehyde. Too much use of formaldehyde, may cause some hair loss –
I looked up all the ingredients in the Baby shampoo and this is what I found:
- Soduim Laureth Sulfate
- Critric acid
- Polysobrate 20
- PEG-80 Sorbitan Chloride
- Soduim Benzoate
- CI 15985
- CI 47005
These big words may seem a little intimidating, but everything can be broken down into a simple explanation.
Click on the names of the ingredients below to follow through to the websites for more information
- Coco glucoside: This ingredient serves as an excellent foam booster and allows shampoos made with healthier ingredients to generate the lather and bubbles customers enjoy. When used in hair care products, coco glucoside smooths the structure of the hair follicle. Finally, it is a very effective conditioner and emulsifier. The Duhring Chamber Test lists coco glucoside as having the absolute lowest irritation score of all commonly known surfactants. As yet, no negative comments or references have been found regarding the safety or performance of coco glucoside.
- Citric Acid: Citric Acid is an organic acid that is widely distributed in plants and animals. Sodium Citrate is a salt of Citric Acid that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products.
- Lauroamphoacetate: Sodium Lauramphoacetate is an amphoteric surfactant (cleaning agent that is both positively and negatively charged) and is used as agentle cleansing ingredient.
- Polysorbate 20: Polysorbate 20 and the other Polysorbate ingredients are a series of general purpose hydrophilic, nonionic surfactants. The Polysorbate ingredients help other ingredients to dissolve in asolvent in which they would not normally dissolve. They also help to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified.
- Sodium Benzoate: Sodium Benzoateis a salt of Benzoic Acid, found naturally in cranberries, prunes, plums, cinnamon, ripe cloves, and apples and used as a preservative in cosmetics and personal care product formulas as a fragrance ingredient, masking ingredient, anti-corrosive agent, and most frequently, as a preservative.
- Soduim Laureth Sulfate: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), another harsh detergent, is the agent in many shampoos that causes that foaming lather we often see in hair commercials. What you don’t know is that exposing your hair to this chemical actually destroys it in the long run, stripping it of essential oils it needs to stay healthy, breaking down protein and halting healthy hair growth. Products containing SLS have a cleaning power that is overwhelming, stripping the hair.
- Polyquaternuim-10: When used in hair care products, Polyquaternium-10 can reduce static electricity. It enhances the appearance and feel of hair, by increasing hair body, suppleness, or sheen, or by improving the texture of hair that has been damaged physically or by chemical treatment.
- Sodium Chloride: Better known as table salt, sodium chloride is used as a thickener in shampoos and conditioners containing sodium lauryl sulfate. Sodium chloride may also cause dry and itchy scalp in addition to hair loss. Also, this should be avoided in people who have keratin treatments, as it undoes the benefit faster.
- Perfume: This usually represents a complex mixture of dozens of chemicals. Some 3,000 chemicals are used in just one fragrance. Many fragrances are irritants and can cause the scalp to become irritated.
- CI 15985 & CI 47005: These are just colourants, the shampoo in yellow, so this is basically its perpose – E 110, Fd&c Yellow No. 6, Gelborange S, 2-Hydroxy-1-(4-Sulfonato-Phenylazo)-6-Naphthalin-Sulfonat, Jaune Orang? S, Sunset Yellow, Sunset Yellow Fcf, Cl 15985, Fd&C Yellow No. 6 (CI 15985)
Alcohol when listed as one of the first four ingredients
Ammonium lauryl sulfate
Parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben, for example)
Polyethelyne glycol (also called PEG/polyethelyne, or polyoxyethelyne)
Sodium laureth sulfate
Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)
Synthetic colors (often listed as FD&C or D&C followed by a color and a number)
Synthetic fragrance or parfum
The shampoo seems to be pretty harmless, and I couldn’t find any Formaldehyde as previously stated by another source – maybe they removed it, either way it is good news for me!
So back to washing your dreads –
Try to work up a good lather without making your roots untidy. This is quite hard as there is not lots of hair to make it nice and foamy. But it will still work.
I start at the top then I put my whole head upside down and I do from the bottom. Rinse your hair properly. You do not want any product build up, massage your scalp whilst you rinse. When you’re happy apply some pressure to your dreads to remove excess water. Try to stay away from dusty environments the keep you dreads clean. Take care of them.
After the wash I inspect again just to double check if it all worked, if I’m happy then I proceed to dry them. You will see the water will move from the top of your head down to you your ends, even though the rest might feel dry the ends might feel soaked for a while.
Getting dreads dry is difficult, and it’s important to dry them properly, otherwise they can smell a little- well ‘Wet-dog-ish’ depending on the perfume in the products you use. But if you’re going naturally then the less perfume the better.
All clean and wavy – well my fringe waves…
So I went to the Salon in Edenvale JHB and met up with Mr. Mofire. I was very grateful for him seeing me so late in the day. My hair usually takes about 3 hours, so we ended at 19:00 that evening.
I think my pain tolerance is getting better – it wasn’t that sore – but he did mention that my scalp was in a bit of a state. Even after all that effort the previous evening, and the stupid dandruff was still there….
He removed it as he went along. Then he introduced me to a new product. He admitted that he had not yet used the product and that it was very new still. Out of options – I took the bottle and googled the company and the ingredients while I sat there. It looks quite legit, and the website of the company has alot of good information on. I decided to buy the scalp tonic and the hair food. He used it on me as he was doing the maintenance. It smelled really-really nice!
The companies name is Roanne Products – they are based here in Sandton. The company has been around since the 70’s, and had a wide range of different products for different hair. They also have a very informative section about all the ingredients and so on to help you understand everything. The product range is called Afridakari – see logo below.
I started to fall asleep as he was busy doing my dreads, I guess it’s a good thing, means it didn’t hurt that much – We talked about all the normal things as usual and later his daughter joined us after school – I wish she was there earlier to distract me.
After we were done he took some pictures. I was very impressed and happy with the results. As always his work is very good, we said goodbye and went our separate ways. Until next time.
It’s been two weeks now and I’ve washed my whole head for the first time yesterday. The itching was really bad, but the scalp tonic from Afridakari has helped a lot. I’m very happy with the product so far. My dandruff is still there little bit but only when I scratch. I’m going to figure out how to fix it, so stay tuned!
Although its not comfortable for me to sleep with my head wrapped up, I’ve made a point in doing it to prevent premature fluffy-ness. I think it is working to help keep my roots neat. Also I don’t think I wack my husband in the face as much now.
Here is a picture of what it looks like now:
I hoped this was informative – Please don’t hesitate to contact me for any advise or question. Even if you want to get in contact with Mofire! Let me know!
Have a lovely day
XOXOX – Jani
Cosmetics info for information on ingredients of shampoos
Truth in aging for information on ingredients of shampoos
The Eco Store for information on ingredients of shampoos
Epoch Times for shampoo ingredients you want to avoid